It was in this context, surrounded by warm water, located between wave-generating storms in both hemispheres, Hawaiians invented and mastered what we now call surfing, more than 1,000 years ago. For centuries, native Hawaiians used an abundant natural ecosystem and advanced agricultural techniques like fish farms to keep everyone fed with enough time left over to enjoy the ocean, too. It was a dreamy few months, and a vague echo of the way Hawai’i was before it was colonised. You start growing things, and you learn by doing.” I spent almost every day up there kind of just learning. “I’ve always wanted to have a bigger platform to be able to learn and do it. “Ever since I was young I’ve always been interested,” he said. He also began farming on land he purchased up the road from his beachside home, battling quick-growing guinea grass and harvesting herbs, carrots, tomatoes, bananas, and honey in such abundance he couldn’t give it away fast enough. People are out in boats, sailing, canoes, diving, fishing, and doing all these other things.” “Everyone who lives in the community has something to do with the ocean. “Everything feels like it revolves around surfing,” he told me of the North Shore community, though by the time he said it, he was on the road again, calling in on Zoom from Australia this spring, quarantining ahead of the revived WSL season. As the virus raged on the mainland, the mop-topped surfer spent his days off rehabbing, diving, sailing, and – of course – surfing with friends and family. Though if you’re John John Florence, home isn’t half bad. All this, only to see the pandemic shutter surf events around the world the whole next year. He’d just finished a 2019 where he blew out a ligament in his knee in Brazil, had surgery, zoomed through a year-long rehab process in a superhuman five months, then, in the final event of the World Surf League (WSL) season, clinched a spot representing the US at the upcoming Olympics in Japan, where surfing will make its debut. (Courtesy of John John Florence / Parallel Sea Productions)ĭuring the summer of 2020, for practically the first time in his adult life, things moved very slowly for John John Florence, a laid back 28-year-old from the sleepy North Shore of Oahu, Hawai’i, whom many consider the best surfer on Earth. John John Florence, a world-champion surfer from Oahu, Hawaii, will represent the US in the 2021 Olympics, surfing’s debut at the Games.
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